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Finally, some beach weather
After 1,580 miles traveled since October 11, we have arrived at Great Harbour Cay (pronounced “key”) in the Bahamas, and we plan to stay put for a month or so.
Since our last update, we have eaten our way through Jensen Beach and prepped for “the crossing” in West Palm Beach. In Jensen Beach, Sylvia had her previously mentioned lunch with client (now friend) Laura, and we shared a fun dinner at Conchy Joe’s Seafood Restaurant with my former client Rob, his wife Kim, their daughter Elizabeth along with Kim’s cousin Randy and wife Holly from the Caliber 38 October Wind. Having missed that gathering, Gary and Cindy from Emerald Sea took us out for Mexican the next night thanks to Cindy’s rental car (surf and turf, as Gary calls it when you have both a boat and a car).
On January 11, we traveled from Jensen Beach to Palm Beach/Lake Worth to await appropriate weather to make the crossing to the Bahamas. While in Palm Beach, we spent about a week at anchor near the municipal docks … us and about 1,000 other boats, many also awaiting a weather window and clogging up all of the available anchorage space in Lake Worth. At one point, I chose a spot to anchor that looked promising but should have known that there was a reason it was not occupied. We fouled the anchor on rocks on the bottom there and struggled to retrieve it. We were able to get the anchor hoisted after significant effort and a lot of worry, and spent our last night at a slip to top off fuel, water and sleep.
One thing we had heard about the Bahamas is that the food is very expensive (our first couple of meals out here prove that to be true). While Palm Beach was a little too ritzy for our tastes, the grocery store had no dress code, so we made three trips to the walkable Publix with backpacks and stuffed our fridge and freezer full. We bought beer and wine, fresh veggies, and canned and dry goods galore. It’s not going to be enough; we’ve already finished one of two bags of corn chips!
On Thursday, January 16, the weather was good for a safe passage. There was a slightly northerly component in the wind, but it was forecasted to shift to the east and drop to nearly nothing, so we decided the time was right. We took off from work Thursday and Friday and set out at 9:30 am for the 134 nautical mile trip. I was hoping we could complete the passage in about 24 hours and clear into the Bahamas on Friday morning.
The trip to the Bahamas from Florida involves crossing the Gulf Stream (GS) current, an infamously fickle stretch of water that can be incredibly rough when there are north winds blowing against the 3.5 knot current flowing north. When the wind pushes against the current, the waves can stack up and create very steep and tall waves. Being picky with the timing is super important.
The western edge of the Gulf Stream is about 5 miles east of the Lake Worth Inlet, and you know you’re in it when the water turns a deep cobalt blue. It’s truly a stunning color. You also know it because the boat slows way down as you aim southeast to counter the current, which wants to take you north. We motor-sailed in that configuration until about 5:30 pm when we reached the eastern side of the GS. We had made good time and were set up well to make our goal of about 24 hours. As it got dark, we were pointed SE at Great Harbour Cay. The route took us across the incredibly busy Northwest Providence channel. The channel is basically a super highway of cruise ships with a few cargo and tanker ships sprinkled in. We passed or were passed by no less that a dozen cruise ships between 11 PM and 2 AM. These floating ecological disasters are lit up like the Vegas strip, so they can’t be missed. However, they are all going about 20 knots (vs. our average speed of 5.5 knots) and are a hazard to get around when our intersecting courses ran so parallel. Each encounter took at least a half-hour as they approached and we had to determine if one of us needed to make a course change. All told, we only needed to make deviations around a few of them, but it was a very tense few hours.
As the sun rose on Friday, we had cleared all the difficult traffic and were close to our destination. The bottom rose from 2,000 feet to just a few feet under the keel and the water turned from deep navy to light blue to turquoise. We hailed the marina on the radio as we approached and were given instructions to wait our turn to dock. Once safely tied up, we cleared customs and immigration at the marina and relaxed in the warmth, tired, but happy to finally be here.
Sylvia and Laura at the Thirsty Turtle, Jensen Beach
Dinner at Frida’s with Cindy and Gary
Through the mangroves, Jensen Beach
Sans Souci on her mooring in Jensen Beach. Photo credit to Holly
Leaving Jensen Beach on a rainy day
Sylvia on the cool nature walk dock in West Palm Beach
Heron on the nature walk
Other wildlife on the nature walk
West Palm Beach
West Palm Beach
Full moon over Palm Beach (the ritzy zip code)
Urban West Palm Beach, not a quiet anchorage
Long walk to the hardware store in West Palm Beach for a bolt. This guy was encountered on the way, with water offered by a local in a cup.
Even the hardware stores in Palm Beach are fancy.
Crossing the Gulf Stream Current
That water color!
One of those damn cruise ships lit up like the Vegas strip. One of the best parts of being at sea at night is stargazing. A passenger on this wouldn’t be able to see Sirius on the clear night.
“The Cut,” the entrance to Great Harbour Cay’s harbor and marina
“The Cut”
Lunch at the Native Hut
Many boats anchored off the east side of GHC
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So give me a report back on beer prices…deciding how much to take or if I just buy Caribe or something local, which I prefer if it’s not ridiculous!
Beautiful pics and you both look fantastic!! Really appreciate your storytelling too.🙏🏻♥️🔥
Have a Kalik Gold for me. Enjoy!